Stick Welding Basics: Techniques and Tips for Beginners
Introduction: The Versatile Arc
Stick welding, officially known as Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is one of the most versatile and widely used welding processes in the world. Loved for its simplicity, portability, and ability to work outdoors and on dirty or rusty metal, it’s the go-to method for construction, farming, repair work, and pipeline welding.
While it’s relatively easy to start, mastering Stick welding takes practice. This guide will walk you through the fundamentals—from setting up your machine to running your first bead—and provide pro tips to help you build confidence and skill.
⚠️ Safety First! Always wear an ANSI Z87.1 certified welding helmet, fire-resistant jacket and gloves, safety glasses, and sturdy boots. Work in a well-ventilated area and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
Part 1: The Basics – How Stick Welding Works
Stick welding uses an electric circuit that runs from the welder, through an electrode (the “stick”), across the arc, into the workpiece, and back to the welder via a ground clamp.
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The Electrode: The consumable “stick” is a metal rod coated in a material called flux.
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The Arc: When you strike the electrode against the workpiece, it creates a super-hot arc (~6,500°F / 3,600°C) that melts the base metal and the tip of the electrode.
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The Flux: The coating melts, creating a shielding gas that protects the molten weld pool from atmospheric contamination (oxygen and nitrogen). It also forms a slag layer over the cooling weld, which must be chipped away.
🖼️ IMAGE: [stick-welding-process-diagram.png]
Alt-text: Diagram showing the Stick Welding (SMAW) process, illustrating the electrode, arc, weld pool, shielding gas, and slag.
Part 2: Essential Gear & Machine Setup
Gear Checklist:
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Welding Machine (AC, DC, or AC/DC)
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Electrode Holder & Ground Clamp
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Welding Cables
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Electrodes (Rods): See chart below.
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Helmet, Gloves, Jacket
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Chipping Hammer & Wire Brush
Machine Setup in 3 Steps:
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Select Polarity:
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DCEN (Direct Current Electrode Negative): The electrode is negative, the workpiece is positive. Faster melt-off, less penetration. Good for thin metals.
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DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive): The electrode is positive, the workpiece is negative. Deeper penetration. This is the most common setting for Stick welding.
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AC (Alternating Current): Used for specific rods (like 7018AC) or when using an AC-only machine.
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Choose Your Electrode:
The rod number (e.g., E7018) tells you everything:-
E: Electrode
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70: Tensile Strength (70,000 psi)
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1: Welding Positions (1=All, 2=Flat/Horizontal, 4=Overhead & Vertical)
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8: Flux Coating & Current Type
🖼️ IMAGE: [common-welding-rods-comparison-chart.jpg]
Alt-text: A visual comparison chart of common welding rods: 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018, and 7024, showing their characteristics and best uses.Rod Type Key Features Best For Polarity E6010/6011 Deep penetration, works on dirty/rusty metal Pipeline, root passes, poor fit-up DCEP (6010), AC/DCEP (6011) E6013 Easy to use, smooth arc, light penetration Beginners, sheet metal, clean steel AC/DCEN E7018 Low-hydrogen, strong, high-quality weld Structural steel, critical welds DCEP (AC for 7018AC) E7024 Fast deposition, smooth finish High-speed flat fillets AC/DCEP -
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Set the Amperage:
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A good starting point is 1 amp for every 0.001 inch of material thickness.
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Example: For 1/8″ (0.125″) steel, start at 125 amps.
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Listen and Adjust: A good arc has a crisp “bacon sizzle” sound. If it crackles and sputters, the amps are too low. If it’s loud and violent, they’re too high.
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Part 3: Core Techniques – Running Your First Bead
1. Striking the Arc
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Scratch Start: Like striking a match. Gently scratch the rod tip on the workpiece until the arc establishes.
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Tap Start: Quickly tap the rod directly on the workpiece and pull back slightly.
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Pro Tip: If the rod sticks, quickly twist your wrist to break it free. If it won’t break, release the electrode holder.
2. Maintaining the Arc Length
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This is the #1 most critical skill.
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Maintain a distance equal to the diameter of the rod’s metal core (“the wire”).
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Too long: Arc will flutter, creating a wide, porous, uneven bead.
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Too short: Rod will stick constantly and create excessive spatter.
3. Manipulating the Electrode
You control three things at once:
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Travel Speed: Move at a steady pace so the arc melts the base metal and fills the crater behind it. Too fast = skinny, ropey bead. Too slow = wide, piled-up bead.
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Work Angle: For a flat butt joint, hold the rod at a 90-degree angle from the workpiece.
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Travel Angle: For a flat bead, use a 5 to 15-degree drag angle (pointing back toward the finished weld).
🖼️ IMAGE: [stick-welding-travel-angle-diagram.jpg]
Alt-text: *Diagram illustrating the correct 5-15 degree drag angle for Stick welding, showing the electrode pointing in the direction of travel.*
Part 4: Pro Tips for Better Welds
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Clean Your Metal: While Stick can handle dirt better than other processes, clean metal will always give you a cleaner, stronger weld with fewer defects. Use a grinder or wire brush.
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Watch the Puddle, Not the Arc: The molten weld puddle tells you everything. It should be a consistent, fluid oval shape moving evenly along your joint.
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Control Heat with a Whip Motion: For thin metal or to prevent burn-through, use a slight “whipping” motion. Move the arc forward onto the leading edge of the puddle, then back slightly, then forward again.
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Avoid Long Arcs: Never “stretch” the arc to see the puddle better. This introduces contamination and ruins the weld.
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Practice, Practice, Practice: Get a box of 6013 or 7018 rods and a pile of scrap steel. Run beads in the flat position until maintaining a consistent arc length and travel speed becomes second nature.
🖼️ IMAGE: [good-vs-bad-stick-weld-beads.jpg]
Alt-text: Side-by-side photos of a good, consistent Stick weld bead versus bad beads showing issues like undercut, porosity, and inconsistent travel speed.
Part 5: Common Problems & Quick Fixes
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Rod Sticking | Amps too low / Arc length too short | Increase amperage slightly / maintain proper arc length |
| Excessive Spatter | Amps too high / Arc length too long | Decrease amperage / shorten arc length |
| Porosity (Holes) | Moist rods / long arc / dirty metal | Use fresh, dry rods; maintain tight arc; clean metal |
| Undercut (Groove) | Amps too high / travel speed too fast / incorrect angle | Lower amps, slow down, hold a slight pause on edges |
Conclusion: Your Journey Starts Now
Stick welding is a foundational skill that empowers you to build and repair almost anything made of steel. It rewards patience and practice. Don’t get discouraged by stuck rods or ugly beads at first—every welder has been there.
Grab your hood, fire up your machine, and start laying beads. The muscle memory you build is the key to unlocking the craft.
Ready for the Next Step?
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External Link: For incredible visual tutorials and advanced techniques, watch the videos from Welding Tips and Tricks.