Product Summary
262, 265, 267, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 383, 400
- This wiring pigtail features a dual HEI connector that helps clean up your engine bay
- Complete manifold and carb kit
- HEI distributor for SBC
- Resists Discoloration From Heat
- Adjustable vacuum advance to improve economy while cruising.
Edelbrock 2021 Top End Kit Details
- Complete assembled HEI distributor ready to install
- High output 50,000 volt ignition coil pre-installed
- Premium high-temperature distributor cap with brass terminals
- 4340 chromoly steel distributor gear compatible with cast and steel billet camshafts
- Mechanical and vacuum advance systems, vacuum adjustable right on distributor
- GM standard 4-pin electronic ignition module included rated to 7,500 rpm
- Performance advance curve built in
- Distributor cap outside diameter of 6-inches clears most firewalls
- Service parts easily available for maintenance and repair needs
- Includes distributor base gasket
- Combo features Edelbrock dual plane intake manifold and four barrel carburetor
- Includes HEI distributor wiring connector pigtail for easy installation
- Pre-assembled red HEI Distributor “under header” ignition wire set included
Our HEI Distributor for Your Small Block or Big Block Chevy is a Real Performance Value
General Motors’ High Energy Ignition (HEI) debuted in the 1970s to replace the long used points ignition system that had been in place. HEI systems provide a more powerful spark to the spark plugs, allowing a wider plug gap for more complete ignition of the air/fuel mixture that has been compressed in the combustion chamber. The system is remarkably simple and dependable, with a direct mounted ignition coil and only requiring a single key switched power connection to function (with a properly grounded engine block of course). This eliminates the external coil, coil mounting bracket (and the room for it), any resistor wire or ballast resistor, and the wiring between the coil and distributor.
Due to the popularity of the GM HEI distributor, there have been numerous versions sold online over the years, many of questionable quality. Often, there is no way to easily source their GM HEI distributor parts to keep that bargain Chevy HEI distributor you scored online somewhere in running condition. Now it is no longer a bargain when you must shell out more money for another HEI distributor. We aimed to solve these problems when designing our HEI distributor by using quality components, precision manufacturing, and easily serviceable parts. From the standard 4-pin HEI distributor module to the HEI distributor cap, and more, we stock everything you need to freshen up your Speedway Motors HEI distributor for years of trouble free service but in an emergency, you can source replacement parts from the nearest automotive parts chain store.
Built Right, Built to Last, and Easily Serviced Anywhere
We start with a CNC machined and highly polished aluminum housing that is fitted with a performance ignition 4-pin HEI distributor module, high voltage coil, adjustable vacuum advance unit, and more. The mechanical advance can be fine tuned using a universal HEI distributor recurve kit, but for most street applications the mechanical advance curve fitted will work right out of the box. The 4340 chromoly steel gear fitted to the distributor shaft is compatible with cast and billet steel cams. Our HEI distributor fits all small block Chevy V8 engines and standard deck big block Chevy engines (such as 396, 427, and 454 displacements), making it the perfect BBC distributor. We think you’ll agree once you have our performance HEI distributor in your hands that it is the best HEI distributor for the money.
Our performance HEI distributor can be used as a replacement for a stock HEI unit, or as a retrofit from a points based ignition. We include our GM HEI distributor pigtail to make power and tach connections easy and more secure when converting from a previous ignition system such as the original points setup. Furthermore, due to the HEI style distributor cap terminals you will need to update your wires to the appropriate HEI plug wire kit, so to make things easy we’ve added one of our top selling Moroso 8mm spiral core plug wire sets to this kit.
Complete Your Upgrade with Plug Wires and an Edelbrock Four Barrel Carb and Intake
These red ignition wires include the proper HEI terminal ends and are pre-assembled and ready to install on your engine. The plug wires included are designed for “under header” routing, which offers a clean appearance and keeps the wires out of the way. While you’re installing your new distributor, ditch that tiny stock distributor hold down for something with some real grip, like our extra heavy duty distributor clamp.
Getting more air and fuel into the combustion chamber to go with the stronger ignition output of our HEI distributor and those Moroso plug wires is a natural upgrade progression, so we’ve done all the hard work for you by including one of Edelbrock’s popular Performer EPS dual plane intake manifolds with everything you need to install it, including gaskets, mounting bolts, a 650-cfm carburetor, chrome fuel line, fuel filter, and more. This intake is designed for 1986 and earlier small block Chevy applications and features a natural aluminum finish with a power range from off idle to 5,500 rpm. Edelbrock’s 650-cfm AVS2 four barrel carburetor features annular fuel flow primary boosters, electric choke, easily replaceable metering rods for tuning, and much more to make it the perfect street induction setup for your small block Chevy.
Guides & Documents
HEI Distributor Instructions (PDF)
KEY SPECS |
|
---|---|
Brand | Edelbrock |
Intake Manifold Type | Dual Plane | Low Rise |
Carburetor Quantity | One |
Carburetor Barrels | 4-Barrel |
CFM | 650 CFM |
GENERAL |
|
Carburetor Flange Type | 4-Barrel Square Bore |
RPM Range | Idle-5,500 |
Choke Type | Electric |
Fuel Type | Gasoline |
Intake Manifold Material | Aluminum |
Intake Manifold Finish | Satin |
Carburetor Finish | Ball Burnished |
Secondary Type | Air Valve |
Fuel Inlet Type | Single |
Fuel Line Included | Yes |
Intake Gaskets Included | Yes |
Gasket(s) Included | Yes |
Bolts/Studs Included | Yes |
Intake Manifold Fasteners Included | Yes |
Sold in Quantity | Kit |
Determining the Best Performance Carburetor For Your Application
Yes Virginia, People Still Use Carburetors
Yes, it is true, major automobile manufacturers have not built a new vehicle with a carburetor in over 30 years. When it comes to OE production vehicles fuel efficiency and emissions reductions mandate the precise fuel metering of electronic fuel injection. That said, the carburetor is far from dead. Even with NASCAR and NHRA classes moving to EFI, there are still thousands of sportsman racers that hit the track every Saturday night with good old fashioned four-barrel sitting on top of their race engine.
We cannot count out the countless tens of thousands of hot rod and muscle car enthusiasts that still run a carburetor on their rides as well. Be it to keep the period look, or perhaps the simplicity of it all compared to retrofitting EFI to their vehicles and the ensuring supporting components, wiring, and complexity. Whatever the reason, when it comes to the aftermarket, carburetors are certainly not going anywhere anytime soon and are still an extremely popular way of providing your engine the proper fuel it needs to propel you around the track or down the road to your favorite cruise night.
How Does a Carburetor Work?
![Carburetor Tuning/Rebuild Manuals](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206420_ArticleSection_M_ead67820-b974-4922-bfae-643810087e46.jpg?ssl=1)
There have been complete books written on the subject, so suffice to say, we are a little pressed for room here in our buyer’s guide. If you really want to learn all there is about how a Holley carb, Edelbrock carburetor, or Demon carburetor work, along with modifying them and rebuilding them then be sure to check out our vast collection of carburetor technical manuals we carry. However, for the purposes of our buyer’s guide a brief review of how a carburetor delivers fuel to your engine is warranted.
You may have heard that automotive engines are nothing more than air pumps. This is very true. Another common phrase is “all you need is air, fuel, and spark for an engine to run.” This too is true (without getting into gritty details). So, if an engine pumps air and you have an ignition system fitted to it, you obviously need some way to meter the fuel into the engine for it to run properly, if at all. That is where the carburetor comes in. While only one piece of the combustion puzzle, it is a very visible one right there on the top of the engine. Easy to access and mess with carburetors are often blamed for a lot of issues when it is in fact something else going on.
![Air Fuel Ratio Gauge](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206426_ArticleSection_M_4a74053e-ae58-4e08-b9be-fe1ef2c33711.jpg?ssl=1)
The main principal of how a carburetor works is something called the venturi effect. As the engine’s piston is pulled down in the cylinder bore it creates a vacuum, pulling air into the engine. This air must pass through the main bores of the carburetor sitting on top of the engine and it creates a high-velocity low-pressure area. This venturi effect pulls fuel into the engine with the air, mixing it to be burned in the combustion chamber. This mixing is called the air fuel ratio (AFR) and the best efficiency is found at 14.7:1 ratio for unleaded street fuel (racing fuels have different ratios). That is 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. While this is the best ratio for efficiency, it is not the best for peak torque generation, which is why if you have an AFR gauge installed on your car you would see the ratio change depending upon the load on the engine.
![Throttle Cable](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206427_ArticleSection_M_5926d479-0655-4bb4-b996-c568b957d272.jpg?ssl=1)
Additionally, the carburetor is used to control engine speed via a throttle linkage or cable, which is connected to the throttle plate(s) in the base of the carburetor. Varying the angle of the throttle plate(s) changes how much air (and fuel) enters the engine, thus allowing the engine to make more power.
Should I Buy a Used or New Carburetor?
The one concern with used carburetors is certainly the age of the unit and how long has it been sitting “dry” on a shelf. Unless it was recently removed from a running engine (similar in specs to your own engine) the carburetor is most likely going to need a full rebuild. Wear that is not easy to fix, such as throttle shaft leaks, base plate warpage, and permanent modifications to carburetor passages, are all things that will have you buying new hard parts and not just your basic carburetor rebuild kit. For that reason alone, unless you have seen the carburetor in use and it is a known good piece, we recommend shying away from the unknown and going with a new carburetor specific to your application and needs by reading further.
What Carburetor Features are important?
![Holley 650-cfm Four-Barrel Carburetor](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206428_ArticleSection_M_2a3c8d92-ea65-4971-8556-0c1a44d90705.jpg?ssl=1)
A feature you may consider important to you may not be for someone else. Much of this is going to be relevant to the intended use of your carburetion system. A perfect example is a street driven carburetor versus a carburetor used strictly for racing purposes on a dedicated track vehicle. Your street car will be much more enjoyable with a carburetor that utilizes and electric choke system and a full height air horn/choke plate for cold starts along with vacuum secondaries like the Holley 650-cfm unit seen here, whereas in a racing application the choke system is essentially a restriction that racers remove, including milling of the air horn height (or simply buying a carburetor built without these parts) and mechanical secondaries are the norm.
Many features though are desirable no matter the engine the carburetor is installed upon or its intended usage. Common features you will find on performance carburetors today are intended to aid in performance and tuning. Features like four-corner idle control circuits, center hung float bowls with external float adjustments, replaceable/upgradable boosters (or at the least dog leg boosters), vacuum secondary control, non-stick reusable gaskets, and more are now commonly found on new performance carburetors. Some older carburetors can be updated to add these items, depending upon the brand and model, but often it is not worth the investment compared to simply buying a new carburetor with these items standard.
How Do You Determine the Proper Carburetor CFM Required?
![Racing Four-Barrel Carburetor With No Choke](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206440_ArticleSection_M_e79de04d-db87-4408-9b88-d63ffbc746e0.jpg?ssl=1)
If a 650-cfm 4-barrel carburetor works well, an 850-cfm 4-barrel carburetor will be even better, right? This is far from the usual case. Carburetor sizing has long been a “bigger is better” fight that even back in the old factory muscle car days the factory was even guilty of going a bit generous on carb sizing. When you factor in your engine’s displacement, volumetric efficiency, intended rpm use, and fuel requirements, quite often you will be surprised at what all the automotive math out there says is optimum for carburetor cfm needs!
The key to obtaining an accurate cfm rating (besides the basic math we are about to drop on you) is being realistic about your engine’s volumetric efficiency (VE). The VE of an engine is the rating of how efficient said engine is at moving air (remember, engines are just air pumps). Knowing your engine’s VE is not critical, but if it has been calculated by the engine builder then all the better for more accurate calculation results. Otherwise, it is a good general rule of thumb to accept stock engines to have a 70-75 percent VE rating, while performance engines will usually be in the 80-85 percent efficient. Stroker engines and other ultra-high-performance builds will often see 85-95 percent VE. So be realistic with your engine’s VE and you will end up with a more accurate cfm rating.
With your engine’s VE in mind you can then input a few additional figures into this cfm calculator to determine the optimum carburetor cfm for your engine’s displacement and VE.
CFM Calculation
- Divide the engine’s displacement by 2
- Multiply the engine’s maximum rpm by the result from Step 1
- Divide the answer from Step 2 by 1,728
- Multiply the answer from Step 3 by the engine’s VE percentage The answer will be the cfm requirement for the engine’s displacement.
For example, let us calculate the cfm for a 383 small block Chevy stroker engine that will see a maximum of 6,000 rpm and has a VE of 95 percent:
- 383/2=191.5
- 6,000×191.5=1,149,000
- 1,149,000/1,728=664.93
- 664.93x.95=631.68
Our result is 631.68 cfm for our 383 stroker build. Using a 650-cfm four-barrel carburetor will be perfect to feed this engine.
What Carburetor Will Fit My Engine?
![Demon Four-Barrel Carburetor](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206441_ArticleSection_M_a0493f61-8038-42ff-9967-7f04aff3d242.jpg?ssl=1)
There are hundreds of carburetor combinations available to the consumer and the reason is because there are so many induction setups out there. Knowing what you are using for an intake manifold, be it a stock production piece, or an aftermarket performance manifold, will quite often determine your carburetion choices. Besides the physical fitment requirements, you must also consider application. Our 383 small block Chevy stroker we discussed previously could be a lumpy street engine that is going to see cruise nights and an on occasional red-light rip, or it could be sitting in a drag car that is going to see max rpm run after run. Popular crate racing series engines makes the decision a little easier with ready-to-run crate engine carburetor offerings.
![Spread-bore Carburetor](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206442_ArticleSection_M_c19abe14-4561-4fac-b800-475baec80016.jpg?ssl=1)
Once you have completed your cfm calculations and know the carburetor cfm value you will need to determine whether your intake manifold requires a spread-bore (seen here to the left) or square-bore carburetor base first. This is the primary decision as to proper fitment. Most aftermarket intakes use the standard Holley 4160/4150 square-bore mounting flange, but there are spread-bore manifolds available, plus many GM muscle cars used factory spread-bore intake manifolds as well.
![Carburetor Mounting Adapter Plate](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206443_ArticleSection_M_ecca153e-24ae-480c-b56b-e3d256b00401.jpg?ssl=1)
![Vacuum Secondary Tuning Kit](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206459_ArticleSection_M_ba6a1317-1311-442d-8c84-ba2518a5d09b.jpg?ssl=1)
![Side Hung Float Fuel Bowl](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206477_ArticleSection_M_2d245a15-e280-4148-b43a-7a23819a669c.jpg?ssl=1)
Float design is yet another aspect to consider. Most carburetors we offer are available in either a side-hung or center-hung float design. What is the difference? Literally it is the pivot location of the float. On a side hung float the pivot location is on the side of the primary (and secondary) fuel bowls. This is how many OE carburetors were designed and aftermarket side-hung float carburetors are great replacements for street rods and muscle cars that see daily driving, cruising, and the like.
![Center Hung Float Fuel Bowl](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206478_ArticleSection_M_6a41de96-4d90-4e39-b5dc-1eb90e95ff19.jpg?ssl=1)
Center-hung floats are more common in performance applications because they are not as sensitive to fuel slosh from hard acceleration, braking, and cornering. Most any carbureted race car will be fitted with a center-hung float four-barrel.
Center-hung fuel bowls are usually a little deeper, so in a dual four-barrel setup you might be forced to run side-hung float bowls for clearance as shown here on this big block Ford. Often your intake manifold manufacturer will spec the two carburetors to use, but we just wanted to mention this potential issue for those running dual fours.
![Holley Dual Feed Carburetor Fuel Log](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206480_ArticleSection_M_804daea6-20f7-4177-a5fc-cb8ef9c7a8bb.jpg?ssl=1)
In conjunction with the float type is the fuel feed design (mainly for Holley applications). Side-hung float bowls are fueled by a single inlet and a transfer tube that moves fuel from the primary fuel bowl at the front to the secondary bowl at the rear. A dual-feed fuel inlet is typical of the center-hung fuel bowls and requires a fuel log of some sort to thread into the fuel bowls to feed both bowls at the same time. While it is possible to convert from one fuel inlet style to the other, quite often you would be further ahead by simply upgrading your complete carburetor to the fuel inlet design your application needs.
![Manual Choke Carburetor](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/206481_ArticleSection_M_e677da25-ef4b-47c5-a6d4-3022a689c89d.jpg?ssl=1)
Lastly, you will need to consider whether you need a choke system and what style to use. Obviously if you are fueling a racing engine a choke is most likely not even on your radar and we offer plenty of carburetors without a choke. However, for those enthusiasts looking to upgrade the carburetor on their street-driven ride, a choke system should be considered standard. Back in the day the choke was nothing more than a manual push-pull cable that the driver set from the dash when starting a cold engine, and yes, we offer manual choke carburetors as well. The choke system was updated over time into a hot-air choke. Hot exhaust was used to heat an air tube or spring that controlled the choke. Eventually this system was further updated to an electric choke system with a bi-metallic electrical heating element within the choke cap itself. Today, electric choke- equipped carburetors are most of the carburetors that we offer.
We know this buyer’s guide has been a long read and if you have made it to the end you should have enough information to begin down the path of choosing your next new carburetor for your project. Whether you are looking for a retro muscle car carburetor, something to fuel your Flathead project, or the right carburetor to put you in the winner’s circle Saturday night, Speedway Motors offers great carburetor brands like Holley, Demon, Quick Fuel, Edelbrock, and more.
Selecting The Best Performance Spark Plug Wires
Can Spark Plug Wires Increase Horsepower?
![Cutaway of wire](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/3881_ArticleSection_M_9bbc7609-1f5d-48ef-9cde-b10904f761ec.jpg?ssl=1)
Just like a rotating assembly or suspension system, your ignition system is only as good as its weakest link. Spark plug wires are often overlooked, but they should be considered a wear item and replaced with other secondary ignition parts during a major tune up. Replacing your spark plugs or ignition coil, possibly even your distributor cap and rotor? Go ahead and replace the plug wires as well. While spark plug wires may not “make” horsepower in the traditional sense of adding a performance part to your engine, they can certainly help create the strongest, hottest spark for your combustion chamber, which aids in helping all your other performance engine upgrades like heads, cam, and carburetor to make the most horsepower.
What’s Better, a 7mm or 8mm Spark Plug Wire?
Most factory applications for hot rods and muscle cars were supplied with a 7mm wire, while many newer vehicles were fitted with an 8mm wire from the factory. Today, aftermarket performance spark plug wires are available in 8mm, 8.5mm, 8.8mm, 9mm, and 10.4mm diameters to handle any ignition system you have on your hot rod, muscle car, classic truck, or race car. There has been an argument about 8mm vs 8.5mm plug wires for decades. The diameter isn’t just about looks or having a “fat wire.” No, the diameter increase is due to performance spark plug wires having a thicker spiral core. That thicker wire core provides a lower operating resistance, allowing more spark energy at the spark plug. This thicker core, once wrapped in the insulating material and outer jacket, is what dictates the larger overall spark plug wire diameter. So, theoretically, the 8.5mm will perform better than the 8mm wire, all things being equal.
![Lokar Cloth Covered Performance Spark Plug Wires](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/223093_ArticleSection_M_19cdff3f-e346-44b3-bd4e-1e7204ee98a1.jpg?ssl=1)
That said, with today’s electronic ignition systems, be it an external box or an under cap conversion kit, a quality 8mm or better spark plug with RFI suppression is your best solution. If you’re really looking for a classic 7mm look wire for your Flathead or other early engine in your traditional-look hot rod, we suggest looking at Lokar’s trick cloth covered 7.8mm plug wires. They have a cool vintage look and can be configured for standard socket or “HEI” style terminals and look the period part at first glance while only being slightly larger in diameter.
What Are the Best Spark Plug Wires for Performance?
![Speedway Motors Spark Plug Wire Kit](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/223103_ArticleSection_M_0780a2ab-4565-458a-bc33-982a326b2eee.jpg?ssl=1)
Quality performance spark plug wires have two main objectives: simply transmitting the spark energy to the plugs and suppressing the voltage interference. If the plug wire’s resistance is too high, the spark energy to the spark plug will decrease, causing poor performance and potential spark plug fouling. If the resistance is too low it can interfere with other electronics such as fuel injection computers, car audio, or GPS systems, or even cause crossfire issues between the spark plug wires. Crossfire is when the plug wire resistance is too low or the plug wire is compromised, providing a path for the spark energy to jump to an adjacent plug wire, which then fires the wrong spark plug at the wrong time.
The best spark plug wires for the street will use a spiral wound core that is well insulated to protect against RFI (radio frequency interference) while providing a solid fit at the distributor cap and at the spark plug. For racing use with shielded electronics solid core wires may be utilized, but with today’s modern performance spark plug wire construction they are quickly being phased out for spiral core wires with suppression abilities.
![MSD Pro Clamp Wire Looms](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/223104_ArticleSection_M_6201f9f3-1f71-46ef-be8c-987d86ec7be2.jpg?ssl=1)
Using quality spark plug wires that are properly routed and secured by a well-designed spark plug wire loom kit will help you to achieve the best performance out of your ignition system. It is also a good idea to perform routine inspections of your secondary ignition system (spark plug wires, cap and rotor, plugs, and ignition coil) for traces of crossfire, abrasion, wear, heat damage, and more. Quality ignition components work hand in hand to provide the strongest spark to light off your combustion chamber’s air/fuel mixture. Using the correct performance spark plug is just as important as the plug wire connected to it. Visit our Spark Plug Buyer’s Guide here on the Toolbox for a more in-depth look at the world of performance spark plugs and what your engine needs to be at its peak performance, as high-performance spark plugs and wires are the tag team that makes your engine run its best.
Are High Performance Spark Plug Wires Worth It?
A Heli-Core wire (one that uses a spiral wound core and conductive layer) like most aftermarket performance wires will be one of the best upgrades over a factory set of wires. A popular option commonly used on the average street and strip application are the Street-Fire wires from MSD. MSD also offers the 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire, recommended to be used with any ignition control box upgrade. It features a conductor that is helically wound around a special center core that is designed to suppress Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI). The Super Conductor wire will have as low as 40-50 ohms per foot, while a factory set can have up to 1,500 ohms of resistance per foot or more and go considerably higher as they wear/age. Of course, MSD’s wire products are just one of several brands carried by Speedway Motors. Several additional performance spark plug wire options that can be had in universal cut-to-fit or pre-cut ready to install wires include Accel, Moroso, PerTronix, and Taylor. We even offer performance spark plug wire options for the popular GM LS engine family, including direct replacement and swap wire kits.
Are Spark Plug Wires Universal?
![MSD Super Conductor Pre-Made Wire Set](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/223113_ArticleSection_M_6f8ca0e8-8730-47d4-ad38-1caa4c10bfbd.jpg?ssl=1)
The short answer is yes and no. You can purchase pre-cut and terminated wire sets for just about any engine family ever made. These sets are usually determined by the original application, however. A small block Chevy 350 spark plug wire routing in a first generation Camaro versus a small block Chevy 350 in a C10 pickup are going to have different wire lengths, different coil locations, and so forth. These pre-made sets are quick and convenient and are a great solution for these original applications. We carry pre-made wire sets for all the popular muscle cars, trucks, and even many modern muscle cars.
![HEI Versus Socket Distributor Cap Styles](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/223236_ArticleSection_XXXXL_167fabfd-84f0-4956-a19b-8689c80f2c0a.png?ssl=1)
![A Universal Cut-to-Fit Spark Plug Wire Kit](https://i0.wp.com/content.speedwaymotors.com/ArticleSectionImages/223237_ArticleSection_M_aafe64cc-3916-48d9-8d3d-63ba7cb90894.jpg?ssl=1)
Where it can get a little sticky is when you’re dropping that small block Chevy into a 1929 Ford pickup truck with the ignition coil mounted inside the cowl for example. That is when we strongly recommend a universal wire set. The universal wire set comes terminated at the spark plug end and allows you to route the wires as you best see fit, and then terminate the end at the distributor cap for a super clean installation and no extra wire length to deal with. These kits often are supplied with both HEI and socket style terminals and boots, making them truly universal no matter what distributor cap you have, but not all kits do. So be sure of your distributor cap type (see our graphic above) and order your universal wire set accordingly. You can even purchase bulk and individual wires for custom situations where you wish to hide the coil for example. For universal sets you’ll need a quality spark plug wire stripper and crimper to get the job done, but the end results are certainly worth the investment in these tools.
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